Honeywell Truesteam Humidifier Troubleshooting Manual

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Honeywell Hm609A1000 STEAM Humidifier 9-gallon with HumidiPRO Digital Humidity Control & RO water filtration system. Throughout the year. Annual maintenance requires no tools to access and clean, saving time and money on annual contractor service calls. 5-year warranty. Cover for TrueSteam 50028004-001. My Honeywell TrueSteam HM509A humdifier 'call for service' light is on. If you press and release the 'reset' button the service light should then blink a number of times and then repeat telling you what the fault is. Experience: 14 years experience in the HVAC field of service, installation, Manual J & D calculations.

Hello guys, I came across you guys 'googled' NEW Honeywell TrueSteam humidifier wont work!, and I joined this site, looks good. I belong to refrigeration engineer.

Just to tell you a bit about me= I do commercial refrigeration, and YES; 134a cap tubes too Unfortunately! I do AC, any kind. I have an EXCELLENT reputation for fixing Ice machines; and IF you have ever brazed in 2 TXV's in a Scotsman CME, then YOU know what I am talking about! For that, you need THREE hands. I am EPA 608 universal; but I don't do chillers. I fix anything that is in a restaurant, gas OR electric, and IF I GET LOST WHILE I AM DRIVING? Believe it or not, I pull into the FIRST gas station and I ask and IF I can't fix something?

MY male ego lets me do that. I'm married too. Love my wife. Anyway,I and have a 1932 Studebaker in my garage; I rebuilt the flat head on it..so I like to think i know I did a GOOD job, ESPECIALLY since my NEW ad in the newspaper says: WE INSTALL HONEYWELL 'TrueSteam' humidifiers on gas pack heaters!

AND THERE ARE LOTS OF GAS PACK heaters here in the south! I did read this Honeywell manual and these TrueSteam units come highly recommended through the guys I meet at the local supply house. Sea Hawks Tv Serial Download there.

And the manager put HIS in, but the other day I caught him taking a new module out of a box and taking it..he said HIS died, JUST great! He JUST installed the darn thing! I didn't use the module; I used the humidistat that came with it.

Anyway, I did use the polyphosphate water filter and wired it per the manual ( makes sense) and then read the book on how to fire it up. The manual says to sit and watch it work, to look for the water move through the 1/4 impeline water line they give you (RATS love that stuff), that will get changed to a copper line after I am certain that this thing works! I turned the heat in my home from 70 to 75. I opened the water on the TrueSteam valve ( sure I charged the water filter first ) 3. I Plugged the TrueSteam in to a socket in my crawl space. The power light did go on. The book says no more than 5' of the '2-fan' low voltage 18-22 gauge wire = did that..

I put 5' to the humidistat that comes with it. Waited for the tank to fill!

The book says wether the knob on the humididstat is on or off, the tank will fill! I ohmed water valve and it shows ok, but i cant see if it's getting power with the cover off! Buy a green power light. Then I closed my heater; unplugged the Honeywell and powered up in reverse, did the steamer FIRST, then fired up my gas pack.

So then I made sure the top and the bottom covers of the true steam where on right because they are a bit tricky and I hung mine from the bottom of the crawl space as I could NOT even use the remote kit as the space there where the main supply duct is off my heater / gas pack is only about 4 ft from the floor in the crawl space to the bottom of the floor to the house. I could NOT pitch the remote hose 2' down per foot, so i hung mine on the main supply duct; was NOT easy like the big square duct in the book. Those easy jobs happen to OTHER people; they don't happen to me! SO, still nothing but a green power light, I have my low 24 volts at the true steam circuit board at 'R' and 'C' I tapped into my fan wire on my thermostat wire (green on my unit) and my heater runs FINE!

The same way it did prior than installing this steamer. I have NO 'service codes', the book says look how many times the red 'service light' blinks = troubleshooting.

The tank won’t fill, but the power is on. I opened up the bottom tank and she is dry. By the time I was done, Honeywell tech support was closed and MOST tech supports are closed on the weekend. Tomorrow, I will physically fill the tank with water from my refrigerator (carbon pack water filter) to se if MAYBE, that water level sensor will fire and MAYBE some water will come into the unit! I triple checked my wiring and ask.. What do YOU guys think?

I think I have a bad solonoid valve #50027997-001 = honeywell part number Any thoughts out there? Maybe you have seen this problem!

Thanks, Stewart. Hello guys, I came across you guys 'googled' NEW Honeywell TrueSteam humidifier wont work!, and I joined this site, looks good.

I belong to refrigeration engineer. Just to tell you a bit about me= I do commercial refrigeration, and YES; 134a cap tubes too Unfortunately!

I do AC, any kind. I have an EXCELLENT reputation for fixing Ice machines; and IF you have ever brazed in 2 TXV's in a Scotsman CME, then YOU know what I am talking about! For that, you need THREE hands. I am EPA 608 universal; but I don't do chillers.

I fix anything that is in a restaurant, gas OR electric, and IF I GET LOST WHILE I AM DRIVING? Believe it or not, I pull into the FIRST gas station and I ask and IF I can't fix something? MY male ego lets me do that. I'm married too. Love my wife.

Anyway,I and have a 1932 Studebaker in my garage; I rebuilt the flat head on it..so I like to think i know I did a GOOD job, ESPECIALLY since my NEW ad in the newspaper says: WE INSTALL HONEYWELL 'TrueSteam' humidifiers on gas pack heaters! AND THERE ARE LOTS OF GAS PACK heaters here in the south! I did read this Honeywell manual and these TrueSteam units come highly recommended through the guys I meet at the local supply house. And the manager put HIS in, but the other day I caught him taking a new module out of a box and taking it..he said HIS died, JUST great! He JUST installed the darn thing! I didn't use the module; I used the humidistat that came with it.

WELL.IF I didn't sink $300 into this thing; I would have..never mind! Now here's the thing; one CAN'T KNOW EVERYTHING and that is what 'tech support' is for, but they are closed on Saturday. You guys ARE my Tech Supports! LOL I have been reading these threads about the Honeywell verses 'April Air'..YOU KIDDING; RIGHT? Anyway I installed a new true steam on my home for the first floor only as I have a gas pack downstairs and a split heat pump up and I did the load calculation ( for the humidity) and bought the steamer unit that will humidify a 4000 sq ft home,if it's 12 gallon a day = OK, if it's 16 gallon a day = ok TOO! Anyway, I did use the polyphosphate water filter and wired it per the manual ( makes sense) and then read the book on how to fire it up. The manual says to sit and watch it work, to look for the water move through the 1/4 impeline water line they give you (RATS love that stuff), that will get changed to a copper line after I am certain that this thing works!

I turned the heat in my home from 70 to 75. I opened the water on the TrueSteam valve ( sure I charged the water filter first ) 3.

I Plugged the TrueSteam in to a socket in my crawl space. The power light did go on. The book says no more than 5' of the '2-fan' low voltage 18-22 gauge wire = did that.. I put 5' to the humidistat that comes with it. Waited for the tank to fill! The book says wether the knob on the humididstat is on or off, the tank will fill! I ohmed water valve and it shows ok, but i cant see if it's getting power with the cover off!

Buy a green power light. Then I closed my heater; unplugged the Honeywell and powered up in reverse, did the steamer FIRST, then fired up my gas pack. So then I made sure the top and the bottom covers of the true steam where on right because they are a bit tricky and I hung mine from the bottom of the crawl space as I could NOT even use the remote kit as the space there where the main supply duct is off my heater / gas pack is only about 4 ft from the floor in the crawl space to the bottom of the floor to the house. I could NOT pitch the remote hose 2' down per foot, so i hung mine on the main supply duct; was NOT easy like the big square duct in the book.

Those easy jobs happen to OTHER people; they don't happen to me! SO, still nothing but a green power light, I have my low 24 volts at the true steam circuit board at 'R' and 'C' I tapped into my fan wire on my thermostat wire (green on my unit) and my heater runs FINE! The same way it did prior than installing this steamer. I have NO 'service codes', the book says look how many times the red 'service light' blinks = troubleshooting.

The tank won’t fill, but the power is on. I opened up the bottom tank and she is dry.

By the time I was done, Honeywell tech support was closed and MOST tech supports are closed on the weekend. Tomorrow, I will physically fill the tank with water from my refrigerator (carbon pack water filter) to se if MAYBE, that water level sensor will fire and MAYBE some water will come into the unit! I triple checked my wiring and ask.. What do YOU guys think? I think I have a bad solonoid valve #50027997-001 = honeywell part number Any thoughts out there? Maybe you have seen this problem! Thanks, Stewart I am having the same EXACT problem.

I believe it's the solenoid valve, but I could be wrong. If you get it working, then there definitely has to be something wrong with the solenoid. I have not fixed mine yet, but I have been researching for the past month, and it seems to be common. PLEASE keep me informed. I am having the same EXACT problem.

He and I have been going back and forth,; I read he has installed MANY of these and this was my 1st problem with one since I have only done 2 of these; the first went without a problem; but was on a duct like in the manual; NOT LIKE the one I did in a 4' crawl space. DO you have a solid green light at least? I did get mine going! I had a section of '2 fan' low voltage wire that was grounding out on each other. I found this out while trouble shooting it, I leaned on the 3 wires going into the unit and then the solonoid fired, then shut back off again.

Did you DEFFINITELLY RULE OUT your humidistat by removing the 2 'HUM wires' from the unit and using one 'jumper wire' ( HUM to HUM ) to see if it will run that way? It seems those humidistats are faulty; 2. Dont for get to make sure the dip switches are set right; I have water filtration so my number 1 and 2 are UP, note there is unsulator 'clear' over the dip'd, so they can be turned on by accident; they come all 6 in the 'down' position. When you turn one to 'up', the clear coating beaks off. Remember the unit WILL run without the cover, but NOT without the bottom tank; has a safety ( microswitch ) there. And don't for get to push 'GO'.

After I plug in the Truesteam, I get a green light, and then 'press reset'. I get NO error codes. I will try to jump the 2 HUM wires on the right side and see if it kicks on. Jumpers set to down down down up down down ( I have the vision pro IAQ thermostat w/ included humistat, but no frost control) I will keep you posted, and post a few pictures after I put the kids to bed. THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY I am sure you checked to make sure the water is on, with NO error codes, sounds like something ( IAQ therm ) is not turning it on, The manager at the supply house had to exchange his 'module' as it was defective, His ran fine with the included humidistat and his digital thermostat; then when he upgraded; he had a bad module.

I haven't spoke to him since, but when something is not right; USUALLY you get the red blinking light, and in the book ( you know) says 'count the blinks' = the answers are in the book. Let me know.. I am curious what you find.

Manually filled the water tank from tap, put tank back on device, then press and held empty to clean. Water has not drained and is leaking from the valve. Seems like it cannot drain. I am guessing it's the solenoid valve.

YEAH, according to my install manual here; you MAY have a defective water valve / OR a bad water level sensor, call honeywell ( if new) and they will probably ship one overnight. As far as that leaky water line, CLOSE the water, take needle nose to puch up on that connector ring where the impeline water line goes into the water valve, and as you puch up HARD on each side, PULL the water line back out.

You need to cut 1' off the end off the water line; if there is a small 'gouge' or cut in that plastic water line where it goes up into the water valve then it will leak..' Drip' slowly. Cut off that piece and with a RAZOR knive, make a clean cut. Then take the water line and shove her back in. Maybe judt let it hand there untill the new valve arrives. I have to say, that one tech @ honeywaell told me one thing and the other tech told me another.

I have to re-wire mine as the mild winter here.. I DON'T want her running without the heat on, we have no humidity problem here in SC except in the winter months when this gas pack is running! It was running with the fan only and that eats up lots of electricity for nothing. OK good idea.

After work I will call them. BTW Inside the water level sensor is a lot of yellow sediment. With sediment on that water level sensor; I assume you had it for a year or so? YOU HAVE to have a water 'polyphosphate' water filter before the TrueSteam, with 1/4' inlets.

You can get them online for $20 = A filter for a home refrigerator is only a 'carbon block' unit = cheap. The water level sensor ALONE is part number is 50027998-001 or you can get the water level sensor WITH the polyphosphate filter from Honeywell = part number 50042822-001 HONEYWELL WONT GIVE TECH SUPPOST TO 'HOME OWNERS' = 800-814-9452. Drivers Foston Ultra Joystick on this page. THEY WANT THEIR PRODUCTS INSTALLED MY CONTRACTORS FOR 'reputation' purposes. Now I have been to Lowes, and True Value in search of a polyphosphate filter and NOTHING is stated on the water filter boxes in these stores. The service advisor at Lowes didn't even know what I was talking about!! So the 3 of us began to read the boxes and I walked out with no filter; threw a Carbon block Culligan on there for $12; as it is new and I did order the proper filter for mine onlne.

I have the unit off and drained rioght now untill the new filter comes. Now WHEN the new filter arrives; I too will have to cut off about an inch off that impeline line = clear plastic water line. But I am NOT keeping the impaline as I have soft 1/4' coper here and I will go with a 1/4 copper line on my inut = piece of mind. Rememeber to have a PLASTIC ferrel and a copper plug in that impeline line if you have a compression fitting anywhere in your system, and DONT tighten it too mach! The ferrel will cut right through the impeline. IF you use coppe on compression, then the ferrel must be copper to seal the line. Update 3: I have called the Customer support number 800-814-9452.

To my surprise, they did not ask me to hang up because I was a homeowner. Since I did not have the full model number (all I could remember was HM509), and serial number on hand, I will try calling again tomorrow. Good, I'm happy for you, Do you have water filtation on yours?. Be honest now! REMEMBER, Honeywell recomends you remove the water level sensor at least ONCE during the one season.

Yeah, thats all you need are the numbers off the box, on the box = first number is the truesteam model and the second is that humidistat model. The model and serial are on the side of the truesteam as well.

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